The Old Way: How Siddu Was Cooked in Himachali Kitchens

Today most Siddus are made in shiny steel steamers on gas stoves, with instant yeast from a packet. But the dish grew up in very different kitchens: smoky, wood-fired, with heavy brass and iron vessels and no thermostat except experience. Here is what we know about the old way.

The pahadi kitchen

Traditional Himachali kitchens were built around the chulha (wood-fired stove), often with a tandoor in Kullu homes. Pots were heavy brass, copper or iron, and cooking was slow. In winter the kitchen was also the warmest room in the house — and the best place for dough to rise.

Rising the dough

Getting the dough to rise in a cold mountain house was a skill. Dough was kept near the chulha or wrapped in cloth and blankets. The longer, cooler rise gave Siddu its gentle tang. Home cooks judged readiness by feel and smell rather than the clock.

Tawa first, then steam

According to Shimla historian Dr. Anurita Saxena, the older method was to stuff the Siddus and cook them first on one side on a hot tawa, then steam them in a large vessel over a base of paddy husk (purali). The tawa gave a little colour and firmness to the base; the husk bed held the Siddus above the water and let the steam circulate.

The “maktu”

In parts of Kullu, kitchens have dedicated vessels for making Siddu. The photograph at the top of this article, from Kullu district, shows a tandoor beside a vessel the photographer labels a maktu, or Siddu maker. Local names for kitchen tools vary from valley to valley — if you know more about the maktu, we would love to hear from you.

What changed

• Steamers: multi-tier steel steamers, the kind Tibetan families use for momos, largely replaced the husk-and-vessel method.
• Gas stoves: faster and easier to control than the chulha, but without the smoky warmth.
• Instant yeast: made rising more predictable, especially in cold weather.
• Refined flour: some cooks mix in maida or rice flour for a softer, whiter Siddu; traditional Siddu is whole wheat.

What hasn’t changed

The heart of the dish is the same: a well-risen dough, a thick, dry, well-seasoned filling, careful sealing, and patient steaming. And the finish — hot ghee — is non-negotiable.

Try the old way at home

1. Use whole wheat flour only, and let the dough rise slowly in a cool room for 3–4 hours.
2. Shape and stuff the Siddus, then cook them on a hot tawa for a minute on the base side only.
3. Steam on a bed of clean straw or a cloth-lined rack over boiling water for 20–25 minutes.
4. Serve with ghee heated in an iron pan.

Our recipe for plain and akhrot Siddu gives the modern steamer method step by step.