Most people come to Bir for one thing: to jump off a mountain. Billing, 14 km up the road, is one of the best-known paragliding take-offs in the world, and on a clear autumn afternoon the sky above our cart in Khopu fills with dozens of coloured wings drifting down to the landing ground at Chowgan.
But Bir is much more than a flying site. It is a Tibetan settlement with some of the most important monasteries outside Tibet, a tea-growing village, a base for treks into the Dhauladhar, and a slow, friendly place full of cafés where people come for a weekend and stay a month. Here is our list of things to do, from someone who lives here.
1. Fly tandem from Billing
Tandem paragliding is the reason Bir is famous. You are driven up to the Billing meadow at roughly 2,400 m, strapped into a harness with a certified pilot, and after a few running steps you are airborne over the Kangra valley, with the snowy Dhauladhar behind you and the tea gardens and villages of Bir far below. Most tandem flights last 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the air that day, and land in the open meadow at Chowgan near the Tibetan colony.
Bir Billing has hosted international competitions, including the Paragliding World Cup, and experienced pilots come from all over the world for long cross-country flights along the range. If you want to learn yourself, several schools run multi-day courses here.
- The main flying season is mid-September to November, when the air is clear and stable. Spring (March to June) is also flown.
- Flying is normally suspended during the monsoon, roughly July to mid-September.
- Book only with registered operators, ask to see the pilot’s licence and insurance, and do not fly if the pilot says the weather is wrong — they are usually right.
- Fly in the morning or early afternoon for smoother air; late afternoon is when the pros go cross-country.
2. Watch the gliders land at Chowgan
Even if you do not fly, sit on the edge of the landing ground in the late afternoon with a cup of chai and watch the wings come in. It is one of the most relaxing hours you can spend in Bir — and free.
3. Visit Chokling Monastery
The Tibetan colony grew up in the 1960s, when the third Neten Chokling Rinpoche bought land here for Tibetan families arriving in exile. His monastery, Pema Ewam Chögar Gyurme Ling, better known as Chokling Gompa, sits at the heart of the colony with a large stupa in front. Walk the kora (the circuit around the stupa) in the evening with the monks and local families.
4. Walk to Sherabling and see a working monastic town
Palpung Sherabling, the seat of Tai Situ Rinpoche, is set in pine forest near Bhattu, about 15 minutes by taxi or an hour on foot from Chowgan. It is a large, peaceful complex with an impressive main temple. Visit quietly, dress modestly and check visiting hours at the gate.
5. Study or meditate at Deer Park Institute
Founded in 2006 by Dzongsar Khyentse Rinpoche, Deer Park Institute runs courses in Buddhist philosophy, meditation and classical Indian traditions, often open to visitors. Check their programme before you come — a few days of study here is a very different way to experience Bir.
6. Tour the Bir Tea Factory and walk the tea gardens
Kangra is one of India’s oldest tea regions, and Bir has its own cooperative tea factory that offers tours of how the leaf is processed. The tea gardens around Bir are lovely for an early morning walk, and a packet of local green or black tea makes a better souvenir than anything in the market.
7. Hike to Gunehar waterfall
Gunehar is a small village just outside Bir, famous for its art residency and its waterfall. A short, pretty walk upstream from the village takes you to a series of pools and falls — best after the monsoon, when there is plenty of water. Wear shoes with grip; the rocks are slippery.
8. Explore Gunehar’s art village
Since 2013, Gunehar has hosted the ShopArt/ArtShop residency, where artists turn the village’s old shuttered shops into studios and installations. Read our full guide to Gunehar for the story and what you can see there today.
9. Drive (or trek) up to Billing
Even without flying, the 14 km road up to Billing is worth it for the views and the cool, pine-scented air at the top. Go early in the morning before the flying starts, when you may have the meadow to yourself.
10. Trek to Rajgundha
From Billing, a 12–14 km trail climbs over the ridge and drops into Rajgundha, a remote valley of wooden houses and meadows in Chhota Bhangal. It is the classic overnight trek from Bir. Our detailed Rajgundha guide has the routes, timings and what to pack.
11. Day trip to Machhiyal Lake and Joginder Nagar
About 20 km from Bir, near Joginder Nagar, Machhiyal is a small sacred lake where the fish are worshipped and fishing is forbidden. Combine it with a look at Joginder Nagar’s historic hydro-electric project. See our Machhiyal Lake guide.
12. Cycle the villages
The roads between Bir, Gunehar, Khopu and the tea gardens are quiet and mostly gentle, perfect for a bicycle. Several shops near Chowgan rent bikes by the hour or day.
13. Café-hop in Chowgan and Upper Bir
Bir has a café culture far bigger than its size: wood-fired pizza, Tibetan bakeries, Israeli breakfasts, filter coffee and long-stay travellers working on laptops. Wander, pick the one with the best view, and stay for the sunset.
14. Eat Tibetan food in the colony
Small family kitchens in the Tibetan colony serve momos, thukpa, thenthuk and laphing. They are cheap, honest and delicious. Want to cook them at home? We have recipes for thukpa, momos, laphing and tingmo in our recipe section.
15. Try Himachali Siddu in Khopu
And of course: come and eat a Siddu. Our cart in Khopu serves steamed Himachali Siddu — walnut, butter, paneer and more — with ghee, green chutney and pahadi chai, every day from 11am to 11pm. It is the perfect thing after a flight or a long walk.
How to reach Bir
- By air: Kangra (Gaggal) airport is about 67 km away; Chandigarh is about 152 km.
- By train: the narrow-gauge Kangra Valley Railway stops at Ahju, about 3 km from Bir. The nearest broad-gauge station is Pathankot, about 112 km away.
- By road: Bir is signposted off NH 154, roughly midway between Baijnath and Joginder Nagar. Overnight Volvo buses from Delhi run to Baijnath or Bir; Dharamshala is about 2–3 hours away by road.
Best time to visit
October and November bring clear skies, crisp air and the best flying. March to June is warm and green, good for treks. July and August are monsoon months — beautiful but wet, with flying suspended and landslides on mountain roads. December to February is cold, with snow on the peaks and occasional snow in Bir itself.
Where to stay
Bir has everything from backpacker hostels and homestays to boutique guesthouses and camps. Chowgan (near the landing ground and Tibetan colony) is the busiest area, with most cafés and paragliding offices. Upper Bir is quieter and more village-like. For fields, birdsong and mountain views, look at the smaller hamlets around Bir, such as Gunehar and Khopu.
Budget tips
- Walk or cycle between Chowgan, the colony and the tea gardens — distances are short.
- Eat in the Tibetan colony and local dhabas; they are cheaper and often better than the trendy cafés.
- Share taxis to Billing and for day trips; drivers in Chowgan will often help you find others going the same way.
- Visit in late September or early March for quieter streets and lower room rates.
Distances and timings in this guide are approximate. Mountain roads change with the weather, so always check locally before setting out.
Frequently asked questions
What is Bir Billing famous for?
Bir Billing is famous for paragliding — Billing is one of the world's best-known take-off sites — and for its Tibetan monasteries, tea gardens and relaxed café culture.
When is the best time for paragliding in Bir Billing?
The main season is mid-September to November, with a second season roughly from March to June. Flying is normally suspended during the monsoon.
How far is Billing from Bir?
Billing is about 14 km by road from Bir, and roughly 900 m higher.
How many days do you need in Bir?
Two to three days is enough for a flight, the monasteries, tea gardens and cafés. Add a day or two for the Rajgundha trek or a trip to Barot.
